Strain through a sieve and leave to cool. Bring to the boil and cook until the rhubarb is soft, but hasn’t yet broken down into mush. I prefer to make mine a little less sweet: chop a kilo of rhubarb into 3cm pieces, place it in a saucepan with 100ml cold water and 500g caster sugar.

At Quo Vadis, Musa tells me they boil a kilo of chopped rhubarb with a kilo of sugar and then let it strain slowly. You will need to make a rhubarb cordial first. This recipe comes from my friend Musa Özgül at Quo Vadis in Soho. Shake to the throb of a 1949 Cadillac V8 engine, strain into the tumbler, and serve. Fill your cocktail shaker with ice, add the liquids. As above, rim the tumbler with salt and fill it with fresh ice. Most people now replace Cointreau with Grand Marnier, but if we’re really talking “top shelf” spirits, I think we have to use 30ml of Pierre Ferrand Dry Orange Curaçao, followed by 20ml of fresh lime juice. So called because you don’t skimp on the ingredients - we’re exchanging our blanco tequila for 45ml of a good reposado (I favour Herradura here). Squeeze in a wedge of fresh lime, and serve.

Then fill the tumbler with fresh ice and strain over the top. (If, accidentally, you use lemon juice, you will need to add some sugar syrup for balance - I learnt this the hard way.) Shake rhythmically to the strains of Peggy Lee. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, then add 30ml fresh lime juice, 30ml Cointreau or triple sec and 60ml white tequila. First wipe a wedge of lime around the rim of a tumbler, then dip the rim in salt to coat it.

Yard house magic margarita